A Victorian cat carved from coral, which tells you most of what you need to know about how seriously the nineteenth century took this material. Victorian Coral Cat Pendant, 18K gold
Coral was one of the great materials of nineteenth century jewelry and it has almost vanished from modern production. Both facts have the same explanation: it was harvested from the Mediterranean in enormous quantities for two centuries, and there is much less of it now. What survives is antique, and understanding it means understanding a material that is neither stone nor shell but the skeleton of a colony of animals.
What coral is, and which kinds appear
Precious coral is the hard calcium carbonate skeleton built by colonies of tiny marine polyps, growing in branching trees on rocky seabeds. It is cut, carved and polished like a stone, but it is organic, which governs everything about how it behaves.
| Type | Colour | Where it appears |
|---|---|---|
| Mediterranean, corallium rubrum | Deep red to orange-red | The classic Victorian and Italian material |
| Angel skin | Pale pink to peach | Highly prized, especially in Edwardian and Deco pieces |
| Ox blood | Deep, saturated red | The most valuable traditional colour |
| White coral | Cream to white | Common, often carved |
| Black coral | Black, slightly flexible | A different material entirely, now heavily restricted |
Why the Victorians used so much of it
Three reasons converged. Coral was the traditional protective charm for children across southern Europe, worn as a branch, a hand making the horned sign against the evil eye, or a teething stick, and that superstition travelled north with the fashion. It was a Grand Tour souvenir, carved in Naples and Torre del Greco and carried home by every traveller who could afford one. And it suited the mid-Victorian palette of warm gold and matte stone perfectly, so it appears in cameos, beads, cluster brooches and the naturalistic carved work the period loved.
Coral also occupied a place in mourning and sentimental jewelry, sitting alongside the materials discussed in what is mourning jewelry, and the carved branch forms survived into Art Nouveau.
Telling real coral from the imitations
Look for growth structure. Real coral shows fine parallel lines or a subtle wood-grain pattern along the branch direction, and a concentric structure across it. Under a loupe it is never perfectly uniform.
Check for bubbles. Glass imitations contain round gas bubbles; coral never does.
Feel the temperature. Coral is cool at first touch and warms slowly. Plastic warms almost immediately in the hand.
Watch for uniformity. Modern reconstituted and dyed coral, made from powder and resin, is suspiciously even in colour and often too bright. Dye concentrates in cracks and around drill holes.
Bamboo coral, a cheaper species, is commonly dyed red and sold as precious coral. It shows a distinctly different, more chalky structure and often visible dye at the surface.
The pale peach the trade calls angel skin, carved and set in gold. Peach Coral Buddha Pendant, 18K gold
The honest part about buying it today
Coral harvesting is now restricted, some species are protected, and international trade in certain corals is controlled under CITES. Rules vary by country and by species, and they apply to modern and antique material differently, with antique pieces frequently exempt or treated under separate provisions. If you are buying or selling across a border, check the current rules for your own country rather than relying on a seller's assurance, and keep any documentation that comes with a piece.
My own view, for what it is worth: the case for antique coral is that the harvesting happened a century and a half ago and nothing is served by the material being thrown away now. The case against buying new coral is much stronger, and I do not.
Living with coral
It is soft, around 3.5 on the hardness scale, which is softer than a copper coin, so it scratches against almost everything. It is also porous and made of calcium carbonate, which means acid dissolves it: lemon juice, vinegar, some cleaning products, and even prolonged perspiration will etch the surface and dull the polish.
So: no ultrasonic cleaner, no chemical dip, no soaking. Wipe with a soft damp cloth and dry at once. Put it on after perfume and hairspray, take it off before swimming, and store it away from harder stones. Faded or dulled coral can sometimes be repolished by a lapidary, which removes material and should be a last resort.
Frequently asked questions
Is coral a stone?
No. It is the calcium carbonate skeleton built by colonies of marine polyps, so it is organic, like pearl, amber and jet.
Why did Victorians give coral to children?
It was a traditional southern European charm against the evil eye and was thought to protect children, so branches, hands and teething sticks were made for them.
How can I tell if coral is real?
Look for fine growth lines along the branch direction, an absence of bubbles, a cool first touch, and colour that varies subtly rather than being perfectly uniform.
What is angel skin coral?
Pale pink to peach coloured precious coral, particularly prized and often used in Edwardian and Art Deco pieces.
Is it legal to buy antique coral jewelry?
Rules vary by country and species, and antique material is often treated differently from new. Check the current regulations where you live before buying or selling across a border.
Can coral be cleaned?
Only with a soft damp cloth. It is soft, porous and dissolved by acids, so ultrasonic cleaners, dips and soaking all damage it.
Why has my coral gone dull?
Contact with acids, perfume or perspiration etches the polished surface. A lapidary can sometimes repolish it, though the process removes material.
Read next: What is a cameo? · What is mother of pearl? · What is Victorian jewelry?
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