Two classics side by side: curb and bismarck links in silver. Vintage Silver Bracelets, Curb and Bismarck
Chains have names, and knowing them turns "a gold necklace" into a precise object: a curb, an anchor, a figaro, a bismarck. The link type decides how a chain drapes, how it catches light, how strong it is and largely how it prices. Scandinavian goldsmiths were chain specialists, which is why my shop is full of the classic types; here is the field guide I wish every buyer had.
The classic chain types
| Chain | How to recognize it | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Curb (panser) | Uniform interlocking links twisted to lie flat | The all-time classic; strong, unisex, ages beautifully |
| Anchor / cable (anker) | Round or oval links alternating orientation, like ship chain | Honest and durable; the Scandinavian everyday favorite |
| Figaro | Curb rhythm: several short links, then one long | Italian classic with a visible beat |
| Bismarck (bismark) | Wide, woven, layered rows; almost fabric-like | The statement chain of mid-century Scandinavia |
| Rope | Strands twisted like cordage, sparkles at every turn | Maximum light for the weight |
| Box (venezia) | Square links forming a smooth continuous square tube | Sleek pendant-carrier |
| Geneva | Rounded, dense links forming a supple, heavy ribbon | The luxurious Danish mid-century signature |
| Herringbone | Flat slanted segments in a V pattern, liquid shine | Gorgeous and notoriously kink-prone |
Anchor links in two colors of 14K gold. Bi-Color Anchor Eternity Link Chain, 14K gold, 32 grams
Which chain types are strongest?
Solid curb and anchor chains are the workhorses: simple closed links, no hollow sections, nothing to snag, which is why a century of daily-wear survivors are overwhelmingly these two. Rope is strong for its weight; box chains are sturdy until crushed; figaro shares curb's virtues. The fragile end of the spectrum is the flat family: herringbone and omega chains kink permanently when bent sharply, and hollow versions of any chain, made light to sell big looks cheaper, dent and tear where solid ones shrug. The buying rule follows: for a chain worn daily or carrying a pendant, choose solid links in curb, anchor or box, and let delicate chains have gentle lives.
How can you tell if an old chain is well made?
Pick it up and listen with your fingers. A good chain drapes like liquid, every link moving; stiffness means damage, bad repairs or grime. Check the ends: quality chains carry proper soldered end rings and a clasp matching the chain's weight, and the stamps usually live there, on the clasp tongue or end links, which the hallmark guide decodes. Look along the length in raking light for kinks, worn thin links and color changes betraying repairs with mismatched solder. And weigh it: honest chains carry honest grams, and the weight-to-size ratio instantly exposes hollow construction, as covered in the real-gold guide.
Maker-marked Danish chainwork: Johannes Hjalmer, 14K, 1916 to 1929. Antique Eternity Chain by Johannes Hjalmer, 14K gold
Which chain should you choose?
Match the chain to the job. Daily wear with or without a pendant: solid anchor or curb, medium weight, and stop thinking about it for a decade. A statement on its own: bismarck or Geneva, where the chain is the jewelry. Maximum sparkle: rope. A fine chain for a small pendant: box or thin anchor, accepting that fine chains are consumables over decades. Vintage buying doubles the value here, because mid-century Scandinavian chains were made solid in ways modern price points rarely allow: the same money buys more grams, better links and a maker's mark. The necklaces section of the shop is sorted for exactly this hunt.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between curb and anchor chain?
Curb links are twisted to lie flat against each other; anchor links alternate orientation like ship chain. Flat and interlocked versus round and alternating is the quick tell.
What is a bismarck chain?
A wide, woven chain of layered interlocking rows, almost fabric-like, hugely popular in mid-century Scandinavia. It wears as a statement piece on its own.
Which chain is best for a pendant?
Solid anchor, curb or box in a weight matching the pendant: the chain should outweigh what it carries. Fine herringbone and hollow chains are the wrong pendant partners.
Why do herringbone chains kink?
Their flat segments have no rotational give; one sharp bend creases them permanently. They reward careful storage and punish handbags.
Are hollow gold chains bad?
They show more look per krone and dent, tear and resist repair in exchange. For occasional wear they serve; for daily wear, solid links win every time.
How do I untangle a fine chain?
Lay it flat, add a drop of oil at the knot, and tease it open with two pins, patiently. Pulling tightens knots; on herringbone, pulling creases. Patience is the whole technique.
Read next: How to tell if gold is real · How much is my gold worth? · All about the antique longguard chain
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